What focal length is best for landscape photography?

An ultra-wide zoom covering about 14-24mm or 16-35mm on full frame is the default, because it lets a strong foreground and a wide sky share one frame. Many landscape photographers also carry a 70-200mm, since distant layers of hills or mountains often make a stronger picture compressed than shot wide.

What aperture should I use for landscapes?

Around f/8-f/11 on full frame. That gives deep depth of field while staying clear of the diffraction softening that sets in past roughly f/11-f/16; on high-resolution APS-C sensors it starts nearer f/8. Focus at the hyperfocal distance to keep both foreground and horizon acceptably sharp.

Do I need a wide-angle lens for landscapes?

No. Wide is the common default, but a standard or telephoto zoom often makes the better landscape when the subject is far away, such as a ridgeline, a lone tree or light falling on one part of a valley. Pick the focal length for the scene, not the genre.

Is an f/2.8 lens worth it for landscapes?

Mostly for night photography. Daytime landscapes are shot at f/8-f/11 anyway, so an f/4 ultra-wide is usually lighter and cheaper for the same results. For the Milky Way or star photography, f/2.8 or faster lets in the extra light you need.

Best Lens for Landscape Photography: Focal Lengths & Apertures to Use

An ultra-wide zoom is the landscape default because it lets a strong foreground and a wide sky share the same frame.

Updated 18 October 2026

Quick answer

Lenses for landscape photography at a glance

Lenses for landscape photography at a glance
Lens type	Focal range	Aperture	Who it's for
Ultra-wide zoom	14-24mm or 16-35mm	f/2.8-f/4	Big vistas with a strong foreground; f/2.8 also suits night skies
Standard zoom	24-70mm or 24-105mm	f/2.8-f/4	A one-lens hiking kit for everyday scenes
Telephoto zoom	70-200mm	f/2.8-f/4	Compressed layers, distant peaks and isolated details
APS-C ultra-wide zoom	10-24mm	f/4	APS-C bodies: frames like a roughly 15-36mm on full frame

Nikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S

The benchmark ultra-wide zoom for landscape work — wide enough for sweeping scenes and strong foreground-to-background compositions.

Best for: Sweeping vistas, strong foregrounds

Canon RF 14-35mm f/4L

Weather-sealed and lighter than an f/2.8 ultra-wide, a strong balance of performance and portability for hiking to a viewpoint.

Best for: General-purpose wide scenes

Sony FE 70-200mm f/4 G

Compresses distant layers — mountain ridgelines, tree lines — into a tighter, more graphic composition than a wide lens can produce.

Best for: Compressed, telephoto landscapes

Sigma 20-60mm F2.8-4 DG | Contemporary

A 20-60mm zoom for L-Mount and Sony E-mount that weighs 385 g (375 g on E-mount) and takes 67 mm filters for an ND or polariser. One lens covers a wide view and a tighter crop of a distant peak on a long hike.

Best for: Hiking and lightweight landscape kits

Sony FE 8-14mm F3.5 Fisheye G

A creative pick, not a regular ultra-wide: Sony's first E-mount fisheye zoom goes from a circular fisheye at 8mm to a diagonal fisheye at 14mm on full frame, and Sony pitches it for using distortion as an expressive tool. Straight horizons bend unless they pass through the centre, and it takes only rear sheet filters.

Best for: Big skies, auroras, dramatic foregrounds

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FAQ

What focal length is best for landscape photography?: An ultra-wide zoom covering about 14-24mm or 16-35mm on full frame is the default, because it lets a strong foreground and a wide sky share one frame. Many landscape photographers also carry a 70-200mm, since distant layers of hills or mountains often make a stronger picture compressed than shot wide.
What aperture should I use for landscapes?: Around f/8-f/11 on full frame. That gives deep depth of field while staying clear of the diffraction softening that sets in past roughly f/11-f/16; on high-resolution APS-C sensors it starts nearer f/8. Focus at the hyperfocal distance to keep both foreground and horizon acceptably sharp.
Do I need a wide-angle lens for landscapes?: No. Wide is the common default, but a standard or telephoto zoom often makes the better landscape when the subject is far away, such as a ridgeline, a lone tree or light falling on one part of a valley. Pick the focal length for the scene, not the genre.
Is an f/2.8 lens worth it for landscapes?: Mostly for night photography. Daytime landscapes are shot at f/8-f/11 anyway, so an f/4 ultra-wide is usually lighter and cheaper for the same results. For the Milky Way or star photography, f/2.8 or faster lets in the extra light you need.